Delhicious

Hello friends, it's been a long day, full of contradictions.
First, let's say that I've never been a huge fan of Indian food. It always tasted a little bit like old feet to me. Well, let me tell you the Indian food in India is REALLY good. I had a thali last night, which is like the Nepali Daal Bhat--rice, curry, lentil soup, etc--but with actual flavor. I had a mushroom curry this evening that was also delicious.
Today is Monday and all the museums and things are closed, so I had to go to the attractions that are open on Mondays.
Anyhoo, I started this morning with the intention of walking to the biggest mosque in India, the Jama Masjid. I consider myself to be a fairly skilled navigator, but I had a really hard time finding my way around Old Delhi. Plus, there are waves of people and rickshaws (both with motors and human-powered--a little guy bikes you around on a glorified tricycle) and cows. I didn't really feel comfortable whipping out my map. Also, I was the only other Westerner I saw. I sometimes use the presence of other tourists to gauge whether or not I should be in a particular are or whether or not I'm on the right track. Anyways, I decided to have a guy half my size bike me to the mosque. The mosque was huge and really beautiful. It was built of red sandstone with white stone accents. I got to climb the minaret and look out over Delhi.
I walked around the bazaars in the old city for a while. This was not quite as romantic as it sounds. There was an unbelievable crush of people. I really don't think I've ever seen anything like it. Other cities I've been to, you'll be in a big crowd for a little while, but eventually you get out of the crowd. The crowd here just went on and on and on.
I got in an auto-rickshaw and jetted across town to an old fort built by one of the mughal emperors. The fort, Purana Qila, is in New Delhi. New Delhi is the half of the city that was built by the British. It has broad avenues and lots of gardens. The fort was pretty cool.
Then, I walked to Humayana's tomb, which is a precursor to the Taj Mahal. It was really beautiful--contrasting white marble and red sandstone, with pretty gardens all around.
I hung out there for a little while and then walked to some gardens a little ways away.
Then, I went to the train station and booked my trains to Agra and Varanasi (holiest Hindu city ever). They have a little office above the train station for tourists only. What a relief! We got to queue in an orderly fashion and wait in the air conditioning. And the agent was very helpful. Everyone downstairs was pushing their way to the ticket counter with zeal.
When I list the things I did today, it doesn't seem like that much, but I put in a full 9 hours.
It's hot here, but I think Bangkok was hotter. Or maybe just more humid. In any case, the heat today was not unbearable and it cools down at night enough for sleeping.
I'm staying in Pahar Ganj, which is widely considered the backpacker area of the city, in between New and Old Delhi. It's not like other backpacker areas I've been to, though. Foreigners seem like a drop in the bucket--maybe because it's off season.
Nothing is for free here, which I felt pretty prepared for. But, I was taking a photo of myself at the mosque today and someone offered to take it for me. I said ok, kind soul. Then he demanded I give him some money. I said no. If you're going to offer, then it should be out of the goodness of your heart! Then, at the tomb a guy was following me around spouting off bearly discernible bits of information. I told him I preferred to walk around alone, saavy to the fact that he was trying to provide me with services I'd then be obligated to pay for. He said "no, no, I work here, I'm not a guide." I said "ok." He eventually finished the speech he'd memorized and then said, without ceremony, "my tip now." I, again, said "no, I told you I wanted to walk alone." As I said, nothing is free!
Now for the staring. I'm getting stared at. And I don't mean quick, furtive glances. I'm talking, intense, penetrating stares. It's invasive. Is it just because I'm a woman? The guidebook says so, and that I just have to develop a thick skin, wear my sunglasses and not return the gaze. Is it also because I'm alone? Definitely. I get the impression people are making assumptions about my moral fiber, being a woman alone. I also encountered some couples who pointed at me and laughed. I have no idea why. Although, I did discover a bird had pooed on my shoulder while I was at the train station...
Men also yell at me, something to the tune of "hello, madame, hey! hey! HEY!" (it gets more insistent as I continue to ignore them). I finally had to tell one guy to f--- off when he followed me around the gardens, asking if I wanted to make an Indian friend.
This could get tiresome, but I understand it's worse in the North than in the South.
Tomorrow, I go to another old fort and to the National Museum and the government offices and stuff.
TTFN!
Lauren