Varanasi
Hello friends, I made it to Varanasi by train yesterday around noon. The train ride was fairly uneventful. I did however, have to eat with my hands for the first time! Usually they bring us Westerners a spoon for the rice and curry, but not on the train. I think I did ok.
Varanasi is pretty incredible, but to be honest, I'm having trouble being excited about being in India right now. I debated whether or not to share this stuff, because I know some of you will be overly-concerned for my safety, but I had a police officer grab my breasts on my way into a temple today (they search you when you go in because there's been some tension between the Muslims and the Hindus). I told another police officer what happened and made a stink about it, but I got the "it's so crowded..." excuse. I've been here six days and every other day had a man follow me in a way that makes me feel uncomfortable, or I've been groped. Every day I've been made uncomfortable by staring and comments. Anyways, after that happened this morning I just really wanted to get on a plane and come home. It doesn't matter how amazing India might be if you can't be here without getting constantly sexually harrassed. I wrote an email to the Indian Tourism bureau. I'm sure it won't help, but it made me feel a little better.
I met some nice older ladies from the US who I spent last night and today with. I can tell the attention is less when I'm with other people. They're really nice and it's nice to be with other people.
The old city here is really interesting. People come here to die because they believe that if they are burned on the Ganges they liberate themselves from the cycle of rebirth. People also come here to pray to the Ganges from all over India. There are masses of people dunking themselves in the river. We took a boat ride at 5:30 this morning to witness these rituals. It's really very beautiful.
I do, however, have some disdain for the holy river, since it's one of the most polluted rivers in the world. According to my guidebook it's septic--it no longer contains any dissolved oxygen and it's full of e coli and other lovely stuff. You'd have to pay me a lot of money to put even a toe in there.
Incidentally, I reported when I was in Malaysia that the Taj Mahal is a mosque--the Museum of Islamic Art in Kuala Lumpur claimed it was. They took some liberties. It is not a mosque, it is a tomb, although there is a mosque on the site.
Thanks to everyone who commented/emailed. I don't have the energy to write you back right now. I'm sorry. Shesh, I have noticed your comments and would appreciate any insight you could give as to why I can't go anywhere without being harrassed.
TTFN,
Lauren
posted by Lauren at 6:15 AM
5 Comments:
Hi Lorena!
That's crap that you're getting so harrassed - it must feel very frustrating.. you are such an independent, strong woman and it must feel very impotent to have your personal sense of safety and space invaded. I wish the S&B girls were all there with you.. we'd poke at them with knitting needles - then they'd leave us alone! :) But anyhoo, I love you and I miss you!
-Katie
8:24 AM
Heloo,
We are feeling for you here. It sucks to feel powerless. Staying with other travelers, even if it means changing your plans, might be a good idea for a while so you can feel more comfortable.
When do you go to Mysore? Staying in one spot and becoming familiar with it, as well as making yoga buddies, will probably help on the harrassment front, I imagine.
Some food for thought while you travel -- your boy Friedman has a long article and video on the NYT magazine about the new "green" movement. Check it out when you have the speedy interent.
Love C
8:55 PM
Greetings, Lauren:
I spent some time this afternoon looking at the photos that you uploaded recently and enjoyed them immensely.....even went back and looked at a few of the older ones to see how the trekking might have affected you. My diagnosis is that you appear to be doing quite well, a little goofy with some of the self portraits perhaps, but otherwise as fit (or more so) as ever. You could probably slide right into your old position on the UW rugby team! At any rate, lacking your propensity for manufacturing superlatives, I have to limit myself to describing your photos as "really excellent"! I plan to use a couple of them as wallpaper or screen savers, with your permission, of course.
After reviewing the pictures I thought I might as well check to see if there was a blog and was distressed to read your Varanasi episode. It is indeed upsetting that you should be exposed to that kind of conduct, especially from someone supposedly there to "protect and serve". Perhaps the indignities that you are experiencing from the local jerks stems from the apparent cultural lack of respect, or sense of worth that is afforded to girls and women in Indian society. Nevertheless, there is just no excuse for that kind of harrassment. I hope that you will be able to find some friends like those in SE Asia or Nepal to serve as constant traveling companions during your time in India. And, should you decide to curtail the Indian segment of your journey for whatever reason, you must be aware that your family and friends would greet your early return with wild enthusiasm!
When I was in the navy, one of our carrier air groups had a motto in faux Latin that might be appropriate here. The motto was: Illegitimus non carborundum. Translation: Don't let the bastards wear you down!
Stay well!
George
10:34 PM
Hi there Lauren.
I read through your post of your travails at Varanasi.. I should really appreciate that you are a very balanced person. Even after a revolting experience, as yours, you have the ability to consider the good aspects of what you saw there-- & can be able to write about it.
Now – to try & answer you… Of course, the actions of the man is very strongly to be condemned… Especially a person misusing his position & uniform & especially at a holy place where you least expect this. You know… the average uniformed cop on the street is not an “officer” per se.. They are foot constables . There in lies the lanuna. These people are generally drawn for the each region’s rural hinterlands where people look at a police(or any government) job as a way to a financially settled life. The background is what causes such uncouth behavior. Generally a low education & economic backwardness & importantly—living without the intermingling & free understanding of the opposite sex—with the taboos going along—make these fellows totally un prepared in these situations & coverts them to fiends… They take advantage & hide behind their position. My feeling is that you can try & go to the jurisdictional police station ask to speak with the SHO (Station House Officer) Usually he/she will be of the rank of Inspector or Sub – Inspector . You can give a complaint in writing about this incident. Every police station will have one or two WPC (woman police constable) who –as per law- is obliged to deal with any woman related incidents. If you seriously want to pursue this, you have to file what is called a FIR (First Information Report) which is the official document that records the crime & the police have to compulsorily investigate it… As you go higher up—it is the Dy SP(Deputy Superintendent) or SP (Superintendent of Police)… These are 100% civil service officers –highly professional & fully trained in their area of work..
In fact in every city, there are 2 or 3 police stations that are totally staffed by women & all women related crimes are handled.. Of Course there are options like these but— you know— you can decide to make big enough noise….. As the police structure is the same all over India, you can remember this--- in the unlikely event of any untoward incident….
Let me also say that the situation will massively change in the South… We pride ourselves (as South Indians) for decency, gentler as well as helpful…
I should know—I am a Mechanical Engineer having studied in Mysore-some years back- – where there used to be innumerable foreign tourists –year after year-- --the city being a tourist paradise—the Maharajas & palaces et al….. Never has any unsavory incident happened….. So it shows the gentler nature of the people down south……
Hope you didn’t get put off by my long message—I am somewhat of a details person…. Please mail me if you feel you want some info from me at shesh25@gmail.com!!
5:05 AM
its just the way this country is !!!
sometimes there is too much diversity to handle
its probably the same with several countries on this planet
But I am sure you will see better parts of India too.
9:24 PM
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